The author set himself the challenge of cycling 1,000 miles across France, from the Mediterranean to the ferry port of Dieppe in Normandy, to raise money for two charities supporting Ukraine.
This is Part Two of his account of the journey, covering the memorable places that he cycled through and some of the people that he met along the way.
From the Cote d’Azur to the Alpes Maritime
Having escaped the film festival crowds in Cannes, my cycling companion and I embarked on the first challenge of our journey – traversing the Alpes Maritime.
Our first overnight stop was the hilltop town of Grasse, with its narrow streets and tall buildings. Over breakfast in the town square the following day we admired the stunning views over the hills to the sea. Grasse, famed for perfume, looked wonderful in the sunshine with its pink upturned umbrellas hanging high all along the main street.
Rested and refreshed, we set off on the steep climbs ahead – the stunning mountain scenery being our reward. That day we cycled 64 kilometres with 1,400 metres of ascent, arriving in the evening at the historic and scenic small town of Castellane.
The Alpes Maritime to Grenoble – the toughest stage yet
From Castellane we followed the turquoise waters of Lac Verdon down into the Bléone Valley, and an overnight stop in Digne-les-Bains. The following day was the hardest yet – 100 kilometres and nearly 1,000 metres of ascent through the Durance valley. Arriving exhausted and hungry in Gap, we found a café hosting a rock gig, where I recharged both my battery (thanks to a friendly barman) and my spirits over pizza and beer.
After two further days of muscle-aching cycling through the Alps we finally found ourselves on the downward run to Grenoble – just as challenging in its way. 1,000 metres of descent, steep, fast and nerve-wracking. Brakes cooled, we made it safely, celebrating this key milestone.
On my own the rest of the way
My cycling companion left me when we reached Puy-en-Velay in the Haute Loire, and I was now embarking on the rest of the 1,000 kilometre journey on my own.
Following the Gorges de Loire with their stunning escarpments and wooded hills, I crossed the river via the suspension bridge at Aurec-sur-Loire and headed on to Saint Etienne to find overnight accommodation. What might have been a depressing urban contrast with the glorious landscapes that I had been cycling through was made memorable by friendly locals and help from an Algerian couple when I lost my way.
Onwards the following day through Roanne and Bourbon Lacy to my overnight stop of Parigny, storms loomed, but I made it to a warm bar just in time, where I met the owner, Hervé. He had spent his childhood in Burnley, and spoke excellent English, so we had an enjoyable chat before I cycled on to eat dinner at my hotel for the night. The menu confronted me with the choice of pig’s trotter or something much less desirable. Forced to choose the lesser of two evils, I found the pig’s trotter surprisingly good!
From Orléans to Chartres – a tough 90 kilometres
Days of cycling through the varied landscapes of mid-France – from the dull, straight roads towards Nevers in the Bourgogne, to the vineyards and beautiful views of Sancerre, brought me to Orleans, the capital city of the Loiret region. Only 90 kilometres to go to my next target, Chartres, but what should have been an enjoyable ride was made difficult by fierce crosswinds and navigation mishaps. A puncture in a small hamlet was fixed by a delightful nine-year old boy and his grandfather using farm tools – a magical moment.
The homeward run
Two days out of Chartres I was on the homeward run to Dieppe. Crossing the Seine and battling fierce winds I reached Forges-les-Eaux, my final overnight stop. The locals that I met in a bar dubbed me “the Viking”, perhaps because of my beard and weatherbeaten appearance!
June 10th was the final day of an epic journey. A cloudy ride down the Avenue Verte to Dieppe, still battling headwinds, brought me to the port and the ferry to Newhaven.
Back in Sussex I pedalled the infamous C7 road with its potholes to Lewes as dusk fell. My journey from the Mediterranean to the English Channel was complete – twenty-two days, over a thousand miles, and countless memories. Many of them involving the special people that I met along the way:
Margret and Rainer, German cyclists I came across in a village patisserie near Nevers. I discovered that Rainer lived in my grandfather’s ancestral home!
Jean in Nevers, an elderly man with a dog called Happy, who had spent much of his career developing centres around France for autistic children before that condition was properly recognised.
Vincent, a book distributor, my dinner companion and only fellow guest in my hotel in Sancerre. He was excellent company over dinner.
John, met on board the ferry, who lives in Shoreham, and had just cycled 800 miles on a rail trip to Germany…and many, many others, all of whom helped to make my journey such a memorable one.
Whilst on my ride, I raised funds (which I am still doing back here in England) for medical and other civilian aid to be sent to Ukraine. This is for two organisations:
Ukrainian Hearts – Based in Lewes in Sussex, who are raising funds for a Children’s hospital in Ukraine. The hospital treats patients with injuries from the bomb shelling as well as providing specialist medical aid which cannot be provided on the front line. Donation link: https://sussex4ukraine.uk/cycle-ride-donation-page/
Convoy4Ukraine – They are a UK charity (reg number: 1211075) supporting the civilian population affected by the invasion. The funds go towards the purchase of ambulances and 4×4 vehicles plus humanitarian aid. The next convoy of vehicles across Europe to Ukraine is in September 2025. Donation link: https://sussex4ukraine.uk/cycle-ride-donation-page/
The author’s day-by-day account of the trip can be found on the web:
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