Seeking an alternative to my usual walks around Lewes, and as always eager to weave some history into my hike, I decided to explore the Arun Valley. After what feels like months of relentless rain, much of the low-lying farmland was submerged, and footpaths had become reminiscent of the battlefields of Flanders. I hoped for reasonable conditions underfoot, though I half expected the worst.
The train journey from Three Bridges grew increasingly picturesque as we skirted Crawley. The route soon took on the charm of a branch line, with flooded fields and quaint villages providing a scenic backdrop.
Upon arriving at Amberley, I wandered through the village – slightly off my planned route – drawn by the sight of an imposing castle visible from the train. This turned out to be Amberley Castle, a 14th-century structure built by the bishops of Chichester. Substantial remains of the curtain wall and several towers still stand, but access is now restricted as the castle operates as a luxury hotel, so I didn’t linger. On my way back, I noticed the Amberley Museum, complete with a miniature steam train. It was tempting to stop for a ride, but I decided to save that treat for another day.
Up into the hills
The route, suggested by the Saturday Walkers Club (Amberley to Arundel Walk) led away from the village and up into the hills. The path diverged from the more popular South Downs Way, following a vineyard and winding through a lovely valley with sweeping views of Amberley and the distant hills. After a wooded section, the next few miles skirted the Angmering Estate, with an enclosed path occasionally offering delightful glimpses of the rolling countryside.
Unlike certain stretches of the South Downs Way, this route was wonderfully quiet. In the first few miles, I passed only a couple of fellow walkers and some estate workers; otherwise, I had the path to myself. Conditions underfoot were surprisingly good, with most of the walk on paved paths or lanes and some firm sections.
Two hours into the hike, I reached the picture-postcard village of Burpham. It looked as if it had been arranged for an American film starring Jude Law, with its quaint half-timbered houses and thatched cottages leading up to the cricket ground, where I paused for lunch.
Arundel Castle dominates the town
By this point, Arundel Castle loomed in the distance. The second half of the walk descended some steep steps before following the River Arun. Much of this stretch was along embankments, which were drenched in places, surrounded by wetlands and beautiful wooded hills across the river. The castle remained visible throughout, and it was easy to imagine knights riding into battle or to a tournament through this unspoilt landscape.
I reached Arundel after roughly ten miles and about four hours of walking. The castle dominates the town, as it has since the 11th century. I didn’t go in this time, having visited recently and feeling tired after the walk. I would certainly recommend a visit, though I personally prefer a more authentic ruin to the heavily restored, largely Victorian edifice that stands today.
A quick pint at the Red Lion and a final stroll to the station brought the day to a close. It’s a moderately challenging walk – about nine miles if you skip the diversion to Amberley Castle. There’s a pleasant-looking pub, The George, at Burpham if you fancy a more lavish lunch than I had, and the first few miles are steadily uphill. On a summer’s day, it would be delightful, but even on this cold yet sunny winter’s day, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
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