Nestled under the South Downs and surrounded by beautiful countryside, Lewes might be thought an unlikely place for football. There are definite whiffs of paganism and men called Seth and Olly wearing silly woollen hats are never far away but a stroll around the picturesque, cobbled streets and a few beers in one of its ancient Harvey’s-serving pubs, makes visiting the place one of the great away trips in non-league football.
On this Saturday in question the pubs are packed, but mainly with fans of Brighton and Hove Albion, who are playing at home on the same afternoon. Like most other teams in the area the long shadow of the Seagulls’ recent success hangs over Lewes. The window display in Harvey’s shop features the Albion, and children in Seagull’s shirts vastly outnumber those in the ‘Rooks’ red and black stripes.
Shaped by history
Lewes’ Dripping Pan ground is one of my top 5 non-league stadiums in the country. A short walk from the wonderfully traditional station, with its old-fashioned signs and awnings, it is literally steeped in history but how it got its name is still a mystery. One theory is that it was shaped by monks from the nearby Priory, digging for salt, another is that it was a monastic fish farm.
The religious house was constructed by close ally and namesake of William the Conqueror, William De Warenne. Its ruins are just round the corner from the ground and well worth a potter around. One highlight there is the extravagant latrine, which no doubt was one of the reasons Tudor henchman Thomas Cromwell closed it and then took ownership himself after the dissolution. What’s not disputed is that it has been home to Lewes Football Club since 1885.
Looming over the Dripping Pan is a curious man-made hill or ‘Mount’. This is either spoil from the salt excavations, part of a formal Elizabethan garden, or my favourite theory, the original Motte and Bailey castle, before the later stone version was constructed on higher ground behind the high street. Scrambling and slipping up this with my sons before the match reveals a perfect view of the pitch and the vast chalk cliff beyond, where, famously, England’s most devastating avalanche killed eight people in 1836.
One of the nicest places to watch football
The ground itself is exquisite. A sleek and modern main stand, opposite a vast grassy bank, provides standing room on top while, on the path below, so steep is the incline that the slope itself is fenced off.
Behind one goal is a fairly new and steep terrace but the highlight for me is at the other end. The tiny bar (serving Harvey’s of course) sits below a covered enclosure. To the side are curious ‘beach huts’ serving as executive boxes, but the roof itself is unique in non-league football. It has magnificent cantilevered double vaults, which are reminiscent of the Parc Lescure in Bordeaux, or Bochum in Germany. Whoever commissioned and designed this should have the freedom of Lewes in perpetuity.
Today’s pre-Christmas match doesn’t quite live up to the picturesque surroundings. The visitors, Welling United, are reeling from making national headlines the previous week, sadly not for football reasons but the result of an alleged brawl between the coaching staff and those of Potters Bar. The subsequent match was called off but it doesn’t seem to have affected their players, or fans, who are in good voice throughout. Lewes are pinned back early on as the ‘Wings’ create and waste several chances.
The chief talking points were provided by the referee as he awarded free kicks to both sides and had to endure some choice South London expletives as a result. The home support was, of course, more polite.
116 minutes!
In the second half, the Rooks appeared to be making more impact and the game seemed to be petering out into a 0-0 draw. The referee had other ideas though, adding an extraordinary nine minutes of injury time, and with many checking their train times, he sent Welling’s captain off for a rash challenge. The game then descended into farce as Lewes scored a winner in the 112th minute.
Cue fury from the Welling fans and management (thankfully no fisticuffs though) and four more minutes. In the very last seconds, Welling’s burly goalkeeper came up for a corner. He managed to hit the post but it wasn’t enough and somehow the rebound was scrambled away. The final whistle at 17.10 led to more chaotic scenes and relief for the home faithful.
The fact that 800 people had paid to watch (with perhaps 100 from Welling), on a day when Brighton were at home, shows that Lewes have certainly struck a chord with the locals. In a similar way to Whitehawk and Dulwich Hamlet they have made the total experience part of the reason for attending. Their commitment to embrace socially progressive issues, pay their women’s team equally and ensure many different types of people are welcome, not to speak of the plentiful supply of craft beer and Real ale, has built up their fanbase despite their lowly position in the Isthmian League Premier Division, the seventh tier of the English football league system.
The fact is Lewes remains one of the nicest places to watch football in Sussex. No visit that starts with a view of a castle and includes sipping tea in the award-winning station café can be all bad, whatever the result.
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